Not happy with being one of the most magical and charming cities in Europe, Venice also boasts having the most spectacular and elegant carnival in the continent. It is no less than a unique world-famous festivity where the stylish looks, good taste and a healthy mixture of adoration and satire of a past as glorious in its form as decadent in its content are its trademarks. Next are the keys to understand and enjoy this celebration, rent the best costume, attend the masked ball and survive the tourist crowds.

ORIGIN

The Carnival origin dates back to the end of the XIII century, though it was in the XVII when the celebration reached its peak of popularity, specially among the young European aristocrats, thirsty of quality opera, good wine, sensual masked balls and orgiastic end of parties.

THE MASKS

Let’s forget the hip swinging parades in Rio de Janeiro or Cádiz humorous folk songs; in Venice it looks as if the characters from Canaletto paintings had escaped the canvas and stepped out into the street in a unique display of fantasy and decadent glamour, knee high socks and silver handle canes, corsets and rose bouquets, lace and flounce, Marie Antoinettes and Casanovas.

The fetish object in Venetian Carnival is the maschera nobile, inexpressive white mask attached to black silk cloth. Nowadays they are also made in silver and golden colour, often richly ornamented.

A remarkable iconic character is the Black Death Doctor, with his beak-shaped long nose and his creepy mourning gown.

CARNIVAL 2010

This year the carnival takes place from Saturday February 6th to Tuesday 16th and the theme is sensations and the sixth sense.

The full programme and schedule can be checked in the event’s offical website.

WHAT TO WEAR

We have already seen that Venetian costumes are far from being homemade assemblages of old rags. Unlike in other carnivals, that won’t do. That’s why one must rent (or buy) it in the Venetian mask shops. Some of the best:

• Ca’ Del Sol, 4964 Fundamenta de l’Osmorin Street.
• Ca’ Macana, 3172 De le Boteghe Street and 1169 Fundamenta de la Toletta Street. Some of the masks in Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut were created by its owner, Mario.

THE BALL

Carnival balls take place in different palaces, theatres, restaurants and hotels. The number and diversity of places is overwhelming. Among the most renowned are the Pisani Moretta Palace, in the Grand Canal, Dandolo Palace, Pesaro Papafaya Palace or the luxury Hotel Danielli, next to Piazza San Marco. Prizes can amount to 400 or 500 euros.

For more affordable options, it is advisable to check out the city list of cafes, restaurants and hotels. Gran Café Lavena, for instance, houses a costume and hot chocolate evening (50 euros), San Clemente Palace bar’s costume party costs only 30 euros, etc.

Have a look at the official website of Venice’s tourist office for further information. In this other website, there is a selection of the best Carnival balls and it is possible to make a reservation online.

WEATHER

In winter, Alpine winds shake Venice mercilessly. It is advisable to wear a winter coat or a polar fleece jacket, gloves and scarf.

Don’t forget that Carnival is a street party after all and consequently the most part of your time will be spent in the open.

TIPS

No other event gathers so many visitors in Venice as Carnival. The amount of people is such that every year the central areas and places of interest get seriously jammed. Avoid it this way:

• Visit the places of interest early in the morning. Otherwise, don’t even try it. Streets become increasingly impassable as the day moves forward.
• Avoid eating downtown. In such days central restaurants are full, expensive and consequently their menus get worse. Dorsoduro is a suburb area where eating is cheaper and safe from crowds.
• Make your reservation now. Hotel, restaurant, costume ball…

LODGING

Because of the stress and crowdings a central hotel is not advisable this time. Hotel Messner is confortable, affordable and it is located in a quiet suburb area far from the main streets and squares.

Photo 1 by Fedele Marco
Photo 2 by Bloody Nick
Phote 3 by D’Arcy Vallance